Tailor’s Clinic – Your Machine’s Check-Up

          by now, we should know our tools and equipments are nothing to be overlooked if we want a smooth job. Nothing discourages or stresses out more than a sewing machine giving ‘issues’ or thread cutting etc…… We can go on and on…

Most sewing machine problems are caused by neglect, overlook and poor maintenance. Sparing just a few minutes daily or weekly, depending on how much you are using the machine, can keep your machine running smoothly. Your sewing machine should not be going to the repairer always, know few tips to keep you working.

 Keep it covered 

Dust, lint,hair, threads and other tiny dirts can find their way into your machine and cause problems, especially in the tension disc area. Do not place Your sewing machine near an open window, and always cover it when not in use. You can make one yourself, or even use an old pillow case- but keep your machine under wraps and cover when you’re not sewing.

  

 Change your machine needles regularly

Proffessionally, Its recommend you replace the sewing machine needle after every four hours of sewing time. Each time you sew, the needle passes through the fabric thousands of times per minute, and each time it does two things: It makes a hole in the fabric for the thread to glide through, and it forms a loop with the thread to make the actual stitch. The bobbin hook picks up this loop by moving just .05 mm or less behind the needle- about the thickness of a piece of paper- so if the needle becomes bent or dull, you may get skipped stitches, broken or looped threads, runs and pulls in the fabric, or even damage to your machine.

When the needle is compatible with your fabric and thread, your machine sews more smoothly. An inappropriate needle will force the thread through the fabric instead of letting it glide cleanly through the needle hole and may cause broken threads or puckered fabric. A common mistake is to use a needle that’s too small for the thread. For example, a size 70/10 needle is the right choice for fine fabrics like silk, and a size 60 or 65 with fine, lightweight thread. 

  
Regular ballpoint needlesare still the best for sewing knits, fleece fabrics, and elastic. And now there are needles specially designed for sewing with metallic threads that havecoated eyes to reduce friction and thread breakage. Unfortunately some of these are not available in our local markets. Endeavor to make it a necessity any time you visit another country to visit their tailors’ market or any haberdashery store you see around. 

Wind the bobbins correctly


A bobbin not well threaded or inserted can jam the machine and cause the upper thread to break. Always use a bobbin designed for your machine in order to avoid skipped stitches, loose threads, and noise, as well as permanent damage to the bobbin case. 

  

Regular cleaning is essential 

Get in the habit of cleaning your machine after each day’s work or project. Basically, a routine cleaning can be accomplished quickly and easily this way ๐Ÿ‘‰๐Ÿ”ป

Start at the top and clean the tension disks with a folded piece of fine fabric. Be sure the presser foot is up, so the tension springs are loose and the fabric can move easily between the disks, dislodging any lint. blow air into it from back to front, to remove loose particles from around the tension disks and to clean other areas inside the machine. Don’t blow into your machine too much because breath contains moisture and will eventually cause corrosion.

  
Always remove the machine’s needle and throw it away after completing a project. Then take out the throat plate, bobbin, bobbin case, Clean under the feed dogs and around the bobbin area with a small brush, and blow out any lint from inside of the bobbin case. If the hook mechanism is removable, wipe it clean with a dot of oil on a piece of muslin, and add small drop of oil before returning it to the machine. Use a light oil recommended for sewing machines ONLY.  Check with your manual regarding other areas on your machine that may require oiling, and use only a small drop for each spot. It is always better to oil too little more often than too much at one time, and avoid oiling any plastic parts.

   
  The shaft under your machine, the lever shaft and other moving parts need to be oiled well for effective function. 

Annually you may call on a repairer to  the machine for you. …….
  

IBADANCITY FASHION COLLEGE

4,iyalode Crescent. Suara Akande Estate. behind IBEDC office (capital building) ring road. Ibadan. 

๐Ÿ“ž +2348081067070

๐Ÿ“ง ibcityfashioncollege@gmail.com

Instagram/Twitter @dgvstyles 

Facebook – search for IBADANCITY fashion college or Dgv Fashion Academy. 

Admissions on into full time and part time classes. Short courses and specialized courses. And more…. 

THE Shirt Anatomy 101

shirts

……. An all time Classic for the gents and ladies. It’s one fashion item that almost everyone has in their wardrobe. 

Fashion statements can be made when you style your shirt well and make it unique. Your creative eye is reflected on the look and the styling as a fashion student or fashion designer. In Fashion designing, you have the freedom of styling your shirts and bringing in different innovations. One good attribute of a good designer is the ability to be able to change the look of each fabric and work it into a perfectly matching style. Each shirt fabric makes a statement.  You must know what it’s saying and how to play it out.  

 

Shirt for men can become a boring uniform if not well played out. 

Knowing how to work on some areas of this garment brings it uniqueness out. Like the yoke, shoulder and sleeve, redefining these parts can really change the appearance of your entire outfit. A particular part of the front you canโ€™t overlook is – the sleeve placket. It can be touched up and styled to create a classy effect or a color pop effect. 

  

PARTS OF SHIRTS- 

  • Collar: The neckline of the garment, often sewn as to fold or roll over. Comes in various shapes, depending on the face shape and occasion. You should know the various types and their classifications, this will help and make your design suitable for the occasion your client needs them for. 
  • Yoke: That shaped piece of fabric below the neck and shoulders, from which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the โ€œsplit-yoke.โ€ Or overlapped. The overlapped yoke is easy to style and can come in lovely cut out designs. 
  • Placket front: A standard shirt front or the cover for the sleeve slit, usually lapped left over right for men, and vice versa for women. Easier stated ‘ left side up for men and right side up for women’. “That’s the dressmaker’s rhyme at out college”
  • Fly front or Concealed front- A flap of material down one side f the front opening of a garment to conceal buttons.
  • Sleeve placket: A distinctive feature that is sewn on the sleeve; the opening of the sleeve fabric near the cuff.
  • Cuff: A fold or band serving as a trimming or finish for the bottom of a sleeve. Some cuff styles include French cuffs and barrel cuffs, Neapolitan, rounded, one button, 2-buttons, angle cuts etc…..

  

anatomy of  the back

The back is not much of stress but as a designer you will want your client to make a cool statement even when they turn their backs. Don’t overdo the details, ensure it fits the fabric style and occasion. If the fabric is loud, take it easy on the detailing. 

  • Back collar height: The part of the collar that is folded over 
  • Yoke: As stated earlier. 
  • Hang loop: A piece of fabric sewn into the yoke seam that allows the shirt to be hung at this point.
  • Side pleats: Single fabric folds at the other parts of the shirt back. Not so much in style again but doesn’t mean it can’t be played with. Especially when sewing for Plus Size, this comes in helpful. 
  • Box pleat front: A double fabric fold, with the material folded under at each side at the back center of a shirt. Also can be a help out when making Plus Sized shirts. 
  • Hem: The finished lower edge of the shirt body.
  • Tail: The part of a shirt below the waistline.

  
Play your collar around and get your clients always looking unique. We have different collars some are – classic; spread; Button Down; Club; Mandarin; Wing Tip; and lots more…..

Don’t just Sew. Know what you are sewing and get your designing skills up the ladder.  

   
IBADANCITY FASHION COLLEGE OFFERS A MASTERCLASS FOR 4/6/8 WEEKS ON SHIRTMAKING. where you can sharpen your SHIRTMAKING skills and make some good numbers of different types and styles of both male and female shirts.

 MASTERCLASSES COME IN REGULAR , EVENING AND WEEKEND CLASSES. 

FOR MORE INFORMATION 

CALL +2348081067070

IBADANCITY FASHION COLLEGE IS AT 4, IYALODE CRESCENT RING ROAD, behind IBEDC office. Take the tarred road opposite chicken republic/KFC ring road. It leads there. 

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